April 2021 Coromandel Loop

3 day ride from Thames to Coville around the top & back via Coromandel Township

Coromandel loop April 9-11th 2021

Fri 9th 86 Km, Ascent 1222m, Moving time 4hr 10min, Av 20.km/hr

Wanting to keep the fitness that I gained on riding pbs3000 a month earlier and not having ridden this part of the world, I headed off early into average weather to try and find safe parking in Thames. The guys at Jolly Bikes pointed me to the campervan park across the road from the shop where a steady stream of movanners should provide some security for my car over the next 3 days.

As I was loading my Gaint XTC mountain bike a movanner walking her dog struck up conversation. She was interested especially when I mentioned my recent fundraising ride, she dashed back to her van to bring me a $10 contribution. What a positive & encouraging note to start on, these interactions help balance the type 2 fun I was going to experience the following day.

The first 54 km to Coromandel town is a bit narrow as it winds along the coast so I was listening for following traffic, fortunately the day was not busy and I could enjoy the sea views over the Firth of Thames. Large pohutakawa trees drape themselves over the road from the steep banks making this first 30km very scenic. At the 32km mark the road turns inland & up for a 220m climb over to Te Kouma then after another climb I’m rolling into Coromandel town for a late lunch of fish tacos. Small but tasty. It is a bit cool at my pavement table with the threatening showers starting to arrive. A local primary school invaded my patch to celebrate Climate Change Day with footpath chalk drawings on various topics related to the topic. I moved on before they started recognising a lone cyclist as part of the answer to this dilemma.

I pushed on north over a number of hills towards the village of Colville and afternoon tea. The general store is a co-operative and had the food groups I needed, Monster Cookie & ice cream despite the cool autumn air. The area feels more remote with a community focus as locals drop in to pick up the kids from the school bus & have a chat before heading back to their homes. The store has nearly everything, a lot of the veges are organic & grown locally but I opt for bananas for energy tomorrow.

Another 5km ride along the coast brings me to Otautu Bay Farm Camp where I’m planning on staying the night. It is quite a big place and there are more sites further along the farm, it must really hum in summer. The camp staff are friendly & helpful but there are no kitchen facilities as it is set up for mostly permanent caravans. I didn’t bring a cooker so I bludged a cup of boiling water for my dehy meal later on. The camp hugs the bay with lovely sea views as the evening cleared, as I ate dinner a sting ray was cruising the beach. The place was pretty much empty so after a short walk I turned in for an early & quiet night.

Sat 10th 92Km, Ascent 2157m, Moving time 6hr 30min, Av 14.1km/hr

The plan for the day was to continue northwest along the coast to Port Jackson & the Coromandel walkway, around the top of the Coromandel then head southeast to Fletcher Bay, Stoney Bay, down to Kennedy Bay & climb over to Coromandel Town.

Breakfast was the usual prepacked muesli & milk powder with no hot water for coffee. I packed up as light drizzle started. The first 20km were around the gravel coast road with more lovely large pohutakawa trees and sea views. It was fairly windy with white caps evident out at sea but until I got around the top it was reasonably sheltered. The passing showers kept me cool as the hills started. The farmland was broken with rocks & scrubby wind-blown trees, I spied a stoat as I laboured up the final hill to Fletcher Bay where the road ends. I now have 2 options, there is the Coromandel Walkway or a higher level MTB route which is not recommended. The Kennet MTB book gives it a resounding thumbs down. On a recommendation from a friend who recently rode this section I stay to the walking track which begins over muddy farmland, a special sticky mud which seems to have a high clay content. There is much less climbing but some strenuous bi-hiking out of Poley Bay up until I reach a decent benched track depositing me at Stony Bay and the road end. I refuel and am visited by a tame sheep investigating me for edibles. This section has been slow going with sticky mud on the farm tracks, steep climbs and slow technical descents with a loaded bike so it is nice to get back to some gravel roads but the usual North Island hills continue as I ride from bay to bay over hills. Stony bay turns to Sandy bay then Port Charles, Waikawau, Tuateawa and finally Kennedy Bay all with few people around. The showers that have been with me all day develop into heavy rain & wind as I start the 400m climb over the range toward Coromandel Town. Waterfalls flow onto the roadside as I grind up the hill, as much as I’m looking forward to the 5km downhill I know it will be cold, I roll into town dripping & shivering having done 90km. the rain doesn’t abate so after a quick supermarket shop for dinner material I get an outside table for pizza while I watch the afternoon rain continue. I don’t warm up so I head off to the backpackers in rising wind and more rain.

I arrived at Tui Lodge looking like a drowned rat, so much so that the owner gave me a towel for my shower. There are not many in tonight and as I’ve taken the cheapest option of a dorm room I risk having to share a room with up to 7 others. Tonight I get the room on my own. There are a few families and a group in for some sort of hui. I’m glad I’ve taken the soft option as gale force winds rip branches from trees and torrential rain produces some surface flooding. The hot shower, dry clothes followed by a coffee have me enjoying life again. I hang out my wet kit although I’m not really expecting much drying by the morning.

Sun 11th 67km, Ascent 572m, Moving time 2hr 58 min, Av 22.5km/hr

I had planned to head east climbing over the Coromandel Range on the 309 Road to Coroglen then climb back over to the west coast and my car. It was too ambitious after my previous day so instead I decided to take it easy & cruise back down the coast. The weather had improved so I had a pleasant ride over the hills & down the coast to find my car safe & sound in Thames. I do hope to ride this last loop one day. Summer is not a great time to ride around the Coromandel Peninsula due to the volume of inattentive holiday makers.